I’m done with my 2 weeks of business travel, and ready to get back to work on our trip to Morocco! I trust that all of my traveling companions have their shots, passports, and flights under control! I think I’ve booked just about everything I can do ahead of time:
- accommodations in Fez, Chefchaouen, and Marrakech
- charter transportation from Fez to Chefchaouen to Volubilis to Meknes to Mohammedia
- first-night dinners in Marrakech and Fez (I’m working on ideas for the 3 restaurant dinners)
- half-day tours for the whole group in Fez and Marrakech (working on smaller tours for the Marrakech medina and Chefchaouen)
Next I’ll work on making sure our house is in order (from afar), and helping everyone get ready for our trip!
Here are some questions that have come up from various members of our group – I want to make sure everyone has heard the same answers:
Can I get a packing list?
Yes! I’ll share my packing list when the trip gets closer, but you shouldn’t need too much that’s out of the ordinary. I’ve mentioned this before but you will probably want to bring a fiber supplement (the fiber gummies are good) to help with the dietary changes, and possibly an antibiotic in case of severe stomach problems. Other than that, it will be the usual stuff.
What should I plan to wear?
The guys can wear exactly what they wear at home in the summer, but they will need pants for when we visit the mosque in Casablanca. For the ladies, I would recommend longish skirts or capris. Short-sleeved shirts are fine, and we can wear anything at home including shorts and tank tops. We can wear long shorts and wide-strapped tank tops out, but the more skin showing, the more attention you’ll get. Although I think a party of 19 will get a lot of attention anyway. Nothing too tight or with too much cleavage. For shoes, I would take sneakers, athletic sandals (Keens or something you can walk in), and flip-flops/rubber sandals. You won’t want/need high heels. Don’t forget your culotte slip!
Can we do laundry?
We will hire Auntie Aiesha to do laundry for us when we’re in Mohammedia. I would bring enough clothes for about a week. The clothes are usually hung out to dry, so sometimes they don’t come back the same day. Moroccans often wear clothes for more than one day, so if it doesn’t smell bad and you want to wear it again – go for it! There will be no way to keep everyone’s clothes separate when Auntie washes them, so hopefully that doesn’t bother anyone. If you’re squeamish about having someone else wash your undies, your choices are a) bring enough pairs to get you through the entire trip, b) hand-wash them, c) don’t wear undies, or d) get over your squeamishness.
What will the weather be like?
It will be HOT (fair warning – no whining about being hot!). Bring a reusable insulated water bottle for each person and we’ll refill them from larger bottles of water. Do not drink the tap water – only bottled water! In Marrakech, the average temperature for August ranges from 70-97 degrees, with 10 mm of rain for the month – typically occurring on one day. It should be a little cooler in the other places we’re visiting – Mohammedia, Casablanca, and Rabat are on the coast. In Fez and Marrakech we’ll plan to be at home resting during the hottest parts of the day.
Will we be safe?
As always, you need to be aware of your surroundings, but generally the crime in Morocco is petty crime like pickpocketing and faux guides. We don’t usually walk alone or carry a lot with us. It’s less of an issue in tourist areas. Just keep in mind that to many Moroccans we look rich and we’re carrying more in camera equipment and electronic devices than their family will earn in a year or more. Keep your stuff close to you or it will be gone.
Will Moroccans be nice to us?
Moroccans are known for their hospitality. When you go to someone’s house, they will always serve you something to eat and drink. Because we are such a large group, we probably won’t have to make quite so many visits to friends and family (we’ll do that after you leave). When you have a meal with a Moroccan family you will be urged to “eat! eat!” (“koolie! koolie!” – “kool” for men). I just say “baraka, shokran”, which means (approximately), “enough, thank you”, and they eventually stop force-feeding me. It is a wonderful culture but there are differences that take a little getting used to. It’s very important for all of us to be respectful of the Moroccan culture, which includes at least taking a taste of what is served.
Will I offend someone if I ask for my own plate instead of eating from the communal plate?
Moroccan meals are typically served with the main dish on one plate shared by everyone. The salads and side dishes are served on smaller plates but are also shared by the people sitting nearby. It’s best if you can go along with this custom – just sit next to someone you don’t mind sharing with. If you are really grossed out by sharing, you can ask for a small plate and the Moroccans will just think you’re a little odd but won’t hold it against you. Several of my favorite Moroccan foods are shown in this video:
What will our house be like?
Our house in Mohammedia has 4 floors. The ground floor has a garage and a small apartment. The second and third floors each have 2 bedrooms, a bathroom, and a large sitting room. The top floor has a kitchen, small sitting room, bedroom, and the “roof” – an area open to the sky but enclosed by solid walls. Each family will have a bedroom for the parents. The kids will sleep in the large sitting rooms on the couches that line the walls. When we stay in riads in other towns, we will usually have a bedroom for each set of parents, and several bedrooms for kids. I am assigning who sleeps with who, so I hope you enjoy my choices. If not, don’t tell me – just go to sleep!
How do we haggle while shopping?
When you shop for food, you don’t really bargain but you have to watch out to make sure they don’t overcharge you. You won’t be shopping for food much, so it won’t be an issue. For pottery, textiles, etc., bargaining is expected. I usually offer a little over half of what they ask, then they make a counter-offer and I take it. Ben’s brothers will haggle a lot harder, but the prices are so low that I don’t feel right haggling them down to the last cent, and I only bargain because it’s expected. If you buy more than one piece from the same vendor you can usually get a better price. There is a fixed-price store in Casablanca and other cities where we can buy just about anything without having to haggle.
What types of beautiful things can we shop for in Morocco?
Lots of pottery, engraved brass/copper, rugs, silver jewelry, weavings, embroidered things. We have a friend who can make clothes to order, so if you’d like something we should go see her as soon as you arrive. We don’t usually buy wood items in Morocco because the change in climate from Morocco to the US can sometimes make the wood crack. We don’t buy much leather because it usually smells a little funky. Be careful in the pottery shops – there are lots of breakables.
Is it ok to take pictures of people, animals, etc.?
For street views, I just take photos without asking anyone. If I’m taking a photo of a specific person, I will ask first. If it’s a water seller, diapered-monkey owner, snake charmer, camel rider, etc., they will have no problem with you taking a photo but will expect a tip – maybe 10 dirhams. If I buy something at a store I often ask to take a photo and I don’t offer an additional tip.
Should we give money to the people begging?
This is a tough one. One of the pillars of Islam is to give alms to the poor, so Moroccans often give to the people begging. Sometimes people will use their children or a disability when begging. Although I don’t want to encourage this behavior, I’m a sucker for hungry kids and people who need help, and I usually give 5-10 dirhams.
Do we need to bring Moroccan money with us?
No. For the larger costs (riads, charter transportation), I’ll collect some $$ from everyone before we go. When you get to Morocco we’ll help you change US dollars – you can also use the ATM. Many places don’t take credit cards, so you will need to have Moroccan dirhams but you don’t need them before you go. I wouldn’t bother with travelers checks – just US$. I still have to work out the costs for food and the housekeeper/cook/laundry, but we’ll have a very good idea of costs before we go so you can plan accordingly.
Can we pet the monkeys, dogs, cats, donkeys, etc.?
Most of the animals in Morocco are not treated like American pets. They may be dirty, have fleas, ticks, etc. Monkeys carry diseases that we can get. Donkeys may bite. I don’t touch any of the animals except once in a while a puppy.
Will I get to poop in a hole?
The bathrooms in our house have regular toilets, as will the riads. When we’re out and about and you have a bathroom emergency, you never know what you will find in the bathroom. It could be a hole. It’s always good to have tissues / wipes with you, as well as some change for the bathroom attendant. For those who have pooping in a hole on their bucket list, we will find you a hole – just be ready.
What other questions are coming up around your dinner table? Post them by clicking “comments” below!
UPDATE:
What’s the internet / phone situation?
The last time I was in Morocco (2 years ago), I got a little USB “modem” from my niece, and bought a SIM card that gave me internet access for the month for $5. It wasn’t super-fast, but it worked fine and I even used it in the car for navigation. I will find out how to get several modems so we’re not fighting over one. I am also going to look into getting some pay-as-you-go (cheap) phones so we can stay in touch when we have to split up. If anyone will have their US phone active in Morocco we could use that phone if we needed to reach you and not have to worry about the cheap phones, so let me know if your US phone will be active in Morocco.